Bare Mattress

The Days Inn we stayed in last night must be next on their list for updating. It was old, about sixties vintage. It did have hot water and a working tv. But the so called continental breakfast left something to be desired. Like food. Desirable food. There were outdated pastries, a couple of boxes of cereal with milk, and coffee. We just about cleaned them out and departed the town of Tappahannock at 8:30. Crossing the interstate right away, I started looking for a food stop that wasn't just a convenience store. I like my pancakes, paper, and coffee. Here in Virginia they must not believe in those things because every little town we passed through had nada. So about 11:00 in desperation we pulled into a Food Lion supermarket and bought a bag of bagel chips and some fruit. A poor substitute, but beggars can't be choosy.The stop at the Burgess Food Lion was pleasant, there was a bench outside the door and we people watched.

Off again, we headed for Reedville, our destination for the day. It's right on the Chesapeake Bay. The museum was a bust, not worth the admission charge and the tour guide drove me crazy. I now know her life story but nothing new about the history of the town. Hungry again, we found a seafood deli by the water that had delicious crab cakes and french fries. Suitably stuffed, we rode off to find the cabins that we had reserved, right next to the ferry that will take us across the bay tomorrow. The campground is a Daniel Boone's delight, with woods and small clearings right up to the water's edge. We completed all the paperwork, walked to our cabin, and opened the creaky wooden door. The outside of the cabin is all wood logs, the inside is identical. That was the problem, there were no sheets, blankets, pillows, or towels. Had we not made it clear we were on a bicycle? Did the lady think we carried all that with us? Does she think it's normal to spend the night in your dirty, sweaty bike clothes that have been on you for 4000 miles? We could always use our dirty laundry in heap for a pillow, right? I marched over to make it clear we didn't want to do any of those things. They graciously offered to rent us a linen package, for an extra $5. Did I have a choice? Now we're calming down and enjoying the place, which really is a beautiful, quiet place next to the water. Dinner tonight consists of peanuts and beer, which Laura was smart enough to pick up on our way here. There is no tv or water in the cabins, our shower was at the bath house. I am somehow getting the internet from her office. My little laptop has been performing admirably.

We rode 52 miles today but it seemed really easy, although my legs really need a day off. Laura seems to be in better shape, but a day off the bike will be nice. Tomorrow is ferry day. We get on at 10:00am, and it's basically an all day operation to get over to Crisfield, Maryland. There are hotels there, so hopefully something will work out and we can get one with sheets and pillows. Being here on the water is strange, I still remember the Pacific ocean those first few days out in Oregon, but it seems like a distant memory. There has been a lot of pavement and plenty of foot circles since then. Between one thing and another I didn't get a list of peeves and pluses together, so I will try on the ferry. I hate to say it, but fall is creeping into the air here, and it is getting dark noticeably earlier. Yuk. We'll be back in town shortly and hope to see all our Denver friends. Good luck Tina, hope you're getting better.